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To improve germination, it is best to start the creeping thyme as plugs. However, in ideal conditions, people are successful with open sowing. We use a sunshine mix that is low in fertilizer to avoid burning the tiny roots. I'll include some planting instructions.

Here's a step-by-step guide on how to germinate and grow creeping thyme seeds:

Preparing the Soil

Fill planting trays or small pots with a well-draining seed-starting mix or potting soil. Moisten the soil with water before planting.

Sowing the Seeds

Sprinkle the creeping thyme seeds over the soil surface. Press them lightly into the soil, but don't cover them deeply, as thyme seeds require light to germinate.

Watering

Water the soil gently after planting to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Using a spray bottle helps to not bury the seeds.

Creating a Mini Greenhouse

Cover the planting trays or pots with plastic wrap or place them in a clear plastic dome to create a humid environment. This helps improve germination rates.

Providing Light and Warmth

Place the containers in a warm location with temperatures around 65-70°F (18-21°C). Creeping thyme seeds benefit from bright, indirect light. If using grow lights, keep them on for 12-14 hours a day.

Germination

Germination typically occurs in 14-28 days. Once you see seedlings emerging, remove the plastic covering. Continue to provide adequate light and maintain a consistent watering schedule.

Transplanting

When the seedlings have developed a couple of sets of true leaves, they can be transplanted into individual pots or directly into the garden. If transplanting outdoors, wait until after the last frost.

Outdoor Planting

Choose a sunny to partially shaded location with well-draining soil. Space the plants about 6-12 inches apart.

Care and Maintenance

Creeping thyme is drought-tolerant once established. Water the plants when the soil is dry, and avoid overwatering. Prune the plants lightly after flowering to encourage bushiness.

Alyssum 

A sun‑loving, woody‑based perennial that forms low, spreading mounds of dazzling yellow flowers each spring. Hardy in USDA Zones 4 – 7 (often grown as a cool‑season annual where summers are very hot).

1.  Seed Facts and Germination Basics

• Seeds are dust‑fine and tan in color.
• Light aids germination, so press them firmly into the surface rather than burying them deeply (no more than ¹⁄₁₆ in / 1–2 mm of mix or grit).
• Optimal germination temperature is 60 – 68 °F (16 – 20 °C).
• Expect sprouts in 10 – 21 days; a brief 10‑ to 14‑day cold stratification in the refrigerator tightens and speeds germination.

2.  When to Sow

• Cold or temperate climates (Zones 4‑6):
• Warm‑summer climates (Zones 7‑8):
• Hot low‑desert climates (> Zone 8b):

3.  What You’ll Need

• 72‑cell plug tray or a shallow seed pan with a clear humidity dome.
• Well‑drained seed‑starting mix (about 40 % perlite or pumice).
• Spray mister for gentle watering and a tray for bottom‑watering.
• Zip‑top bag with a pinch of moist vermiculite or a damp coffee filter if you’ll stratify the seed.
• Bright LED or T‑5 shop lights (14‑16 hours per day).
• A small fan to keep air moving and prevent damping‑off.

4.  Optional Cold Stratification

1. Label and date a zip‑top bag.
2. Add a moist coffee filter or a teaspoon of damp vermiculite.
3. Sprinkle the seed onto that medium, seal the bag, and refrigerate at 34 – 40 °F (1 – 4 °C).
4. After 10–14 days, or when you notice a few seeds starting to sprout, sow them immediately.

5.  How to Start Indoors

1. Pre‑moisten the seed mix so it holds together when squeezed but does not drip.
2. Fill your cells, tapping gently to settle the medium.
3. Surface‑sow three to four seeds in each cell and mist lightly so they adhere.
4. Dust with a whisper‑thin layer of mix or coarse sand, no deeper than ¹⁄₁₆ in.
5. Cover with a humidity dome and place the tray on a heat mat set to about 65 °F (18 °C); switch on lights right away.
6. Keep the medium just moist—bottom‑water whenever the surface begins to lighten.
7. Remove the dome once roughly half the seeds have sprouted and run a fan for airflow.
8. When the first true leaves appear, thin to the strongest one or two seedlings per cell.
9. Harden the plants off outdoors over 7–10 days before transplanting.

6.  Transplanting and Site Preparation

• Sun: Give them full sun; very light afternoon shade is tolerated only in hot regions.
• Soil: Lean, gravelly, neutral to slightly alkaline soil (pH 6.5 – 7.5) with excellent drainage. Incorporate coarse sand or small gravel if your soil is heavy. Avoid rich composts or high‑nitrogen fertilizers, which encourage floppy foliage over flowers.
• Spacing: Set plants 9–12 in (23–30 cm) apart. Mature mounds reach 12–18 in wide.
• Planting depth: Keep the root collar level with the surrounding soil; firm gently and water thoroughly to settle.
• Irrigation after planting: Keep the top inch of soil moist until you see fresh growth, then allow it to dry between waterings.

7.  Direct‑Sowing Outdoors

1. Rake a thin layer of gritty sand or fine gravel over the planting area.
2. Mix seed with ten parts dry sand for even distribution and broadcast thinly.
3. Press the seed into the soil or grit with your hand or a board—do not bury it deeply.
4. Mist daily (or use a very gentle sprinkler) until seedlings emerge.
5. When seedlings have two to three true leaves, thin so that mature plants will stand 9–12 in apart.

8.  Ongoing Care

• Water: Once established, water only during extended droughts; over‑watering shortens the plant’s life.
• Feeding: Generally unnecessary. If your pH is below 6.5, a light dusting of garden lime or rock phosphate each spring can help.
• Mulch: A thin gravel mulch keeps crowns dry and discourages weeds. Avoid organic mulches that hold moisture against the stems.
• Pruning: Immediately after flowering, shear plants back by about one‑half. This keeps the mound tidy and promotes fresh basal growth.
• Winter: Plants withstand –20 °F (–29 °C). Leave foliage in place for insulation, then trim any winter‑burned stems in early spring.

9.  Self‑Seeding and Division

Basket‑of‑Gold often scatters a few seeds into nearby cracks; tiny volunteer seedlings can be moved while still small. Older clumps become woody after three to four years—divide them in early fall or simply start fresh plants from seed to keep the display vigorous.

10.  Quick Troubleshooting

• Patchy or slow germination: Seeds may have been buried too deeply or lacked cold stratification. Sow on the surface and pre‑chill next time.
• Seedlings collapsing at soil line: Likely damping‑off. Improve airflow, bottom‑water instead of misting, and use sterile media.
• Yellow, floppy growth: Usually the result of too much nitrogen or insufficient light. Move plants to a sunnier position and avoid rich fertilizer.
• Dead center in older mounds: Age and poor drainage contribute. Shear plants back hard after bloom, improve drainage, and consider re‑seeding or dividing.

With lean soil, sharp drainage, and plenty of sunshine, Basket‑of‑Gold will reward you with a brilliant cascade of golden blossoms that brighten rockeries, wall crevices, and dry slopes every spring—virtually carefree once established.

Hibiscus Instructions:

Soak seeds in water at room temperature for about 8 hours to speed germination.

Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in seed-starting formula.

Keep the soil moist at 70-75 degrees F.

Seedlings emerge in 14-21 days.

As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.

Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.

If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 2 pairs of true leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots.

Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening-off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.

Here are detailed, step-by-step planting instructions for Jasmine seeds:

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Step 1: Seed Preparation
• Soak Seeds: Begin by soaking your Jasmine seeds in warm water for about 12-24 hours. This softens their outer shell and encourages faster germination.

Step 2: Preparing the Planting Medium
• Choose Containers: Use small seed-starting trays or pots with drainage holes. Seed trays with clear domes or plastic covers are ideal to maintain humidity.
• Soil Mix: Prepare a well-draining seed-starting mix consisting of equal parts peat moss (or coconut coir), perlite, and fine compost.

Step 3: Planting Seeds
• Planting Depth: Place the seeds on top of the soil surface, gently pressing them down. Do not bury them deeply—just barely cover the seeds with a thin sprinkling (approximately 1/8 inch) of your prepared soil mix.
• Spacing: If planting multiple seeds in a tray, space them approximately 2 inches apart to allow room for growth.

Step 4: Germination Conditions
• Temperature: Jasmine seeds germinate best at temperatures between 65-75°F (18-24°C).
• Humidity and Moisture: Keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged. Use a spray bottle or gentle misting to maintain moisture without disturbing seeds.
• Cover the Tray: Place a clear plastic dome or wrap loosely with clear plastic wrap to help retain humidity and warmth.

Step 5: Lighting Conditions
• Indirect Light: Provide bright, indirect sunlight. Avoid direct sunlight at this stage, as it may dry out or scorch the seedlings. A north or east-facing windowsill is ideal.
• Alternatively, use fluorescent grow lights positioned 4-6 inches above the tray, maintaining about 12-14 hours of light daily.

Step 6: Germination Timeline
• Germination Period: Jasmine seeds typically germinate in 2-4 weeks, though they can occasionally take up to 6 weeks depending on conditions. Be patient, and maintain steady moisture and temperature.

Step 7: Seedling Care
• Remove Dome: Once seedlings emerge and develop their first true leaves, remove the humidity dome gradually to acclimate seedlings to ambient conditions.
• Watering: Maintain consistent moisture, watering gently when the soil surface feels dry.
• Ventilation: Ensure adequate air circulation around seedlings to prevent fungal diseases. A small fan placed nearby (on a gentle setting) can help strengthen stems.

Step 8: Transplanting Seedlings
• Timing: When seedlings have at least 2-3 sets of true leaves, and are approximately 4-6 inches tall, transplant into individual pots or containers filled with well-draining, nutrient-rich potting soil.
• Pot Size: A 4-inch pot is suitable at this stage.
• Planting Location: Place young plants in an area with bright, indirect sunlight initially, slowly acclimating them to brighter conditions.

Step 9: Outdoor Transplanting (optional)
• Timing: After danger of frost has passed and seedlings are robust, transplant outdoors into a sunny or partially shaded location.
• Spacing: Plant seedlings about 5-6 feet apart if intending to grow as vines or ground covers.
• Soil Requirements: Jasmine prefers well-drained, fertile soil rich in organic matter.
• Support Structure: If planning to train them as vines, ensure you have a trellis, arbor, fence, or similar structure ready to support their growth.

Step 10: Maintenance and Care
• Watering: Keep plants well-watered, especially in the first growing season. Established plants tolerate some drought but thrive with regular watering.
• Fertilization: Feed young plants monthly during the growing season using a balanced, slow-release fertilizer.
• Pruning: Prune Jasmine annually after flowering to maintain shape and encourage dense growth.

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Follow these instructions closely to maximize your success with growing healthy, thriving Jasmine from seeds.